Day 10-11: Galapagos to Hacienda Zuleta

After 7 nights on the Integrity yacht, we bid farewell to our wonderful crew and guide. Then we flew from Galapagos to Quito. Upon arrival in Quito, we were met and transferred 2 hours to Zuleta.

We spent our 2 last days in Ecuador at the beautiful Hacienda Zuleta. 

Built in the 17th century, it's still a working farm with an amazing cheese factory, organic farm, stables, etc… 

This hacienda is a beautiful lodge filled with Plazo-Lasso family's furnitures, books and photos.

 It seems like Gabriel Garcia Marques could have written a novel about them! 

Located in the highlands (9000 feet), it's in a beautiful village surrounded by high peaks. 

We are  spoiled by cheese tastings, horseback riding, condors, llamas, farm to table meals and amazing staff. 

Day 9: North Seymour Island - Frigate Birds & Hammerheads

This morning's landing featured a welcoming party of sea lions followed by a visit to a nesting colony of magnificent and red frigate birds.  

This was interesting to observe because the male red frigate has a huge bright red pouch like a balloon that he fills with air and then beats out a rhythm with his beak to attract a mate.  It was all rather comical.

There were lots of cute chicks in the nests with their fluffy white heads and we also saw some iconic blue footed boobies including one that was standing over a bright blue egg.

We learned how to determine the sex of the blue footed boobie by the pupil (females have fully dialated pupils that make them attractive and males have pin point pupils).

Each day Richard shares a wealth of information about the flora, fauna, history and much more.  Today we had a lecture on “arrival, establishment and reproduction” which explained to us how so many endemic species arose in the Galapagos in such a short (geologically speaking) time of 3 million years.  Most reptiles arrived by floating out on the currents and surviving for 3-6 weeks without water and with limited food.  Very few if any mammals could make the journey from the coast of Ecuador over 500 miles away so the islands are mostly populated by reptiles and birds.  Seeds came both through the air and in the stomachs of birds.  Each species needed to achieve three criteria to survive: 1. Arrive in the islands 2. Establish shelter, food and water 3. Reproduce.  

Blue footed booby with its blue egg!

Our last snorkel gave us the best chance to see hammerhead sharks so we set off in rough seas and dropped into the water in 4-6 foot swells.  It is amazing how easy it is to snorkel when the sea is rough - you wouldn’t imagine that the sea is actually quite calm just a few feet below the surface.  We saw our final sea turtles, some great schools of fish but alas, no hammerhead sharks, only white tipped reef sharks laying peacefully in a sandy spot amongst the boulders.  Guess we will just have to come back again for the hammerheads!

Next:  Galapagos to Hacienda Zuleta

Day 8: Santiago Island - Fur Seals, Spinner Dolphins & Sharks

Our morning started bright and early as usual with wake up at 6:00AM, breakfast at 6:30AM and then off to shore in the pangas by 7:00AM.  Today we were treated to a beautiful walk along the shore to a fur seal colony.  The fur seals were located in some stunning grottos created by lava tubed along the coastline.  

They have incredibly thick coats and differ from sea lions in that their heads are basically plopped onto their shoulders without any long neck, they have short snouts like a bear, and they are much smaller than sea lions.  I have seen fur seals in Antarctica and they are some of the most dangerous animals on that continent due to their aggressive nature but here in the Galapagos they are not threatening at all.  We got some great close up views and then walked amongst the tide pools which were filled with marine iguanas and red crabs.

After our walk we set off to snorkel along the nearby cliffs and were able to swim into some giant caves which were backlit so that the turtles and fish seemed to hang in space when viewed from the back of the cave.  One cave allowed you to swim underwater and connect into a different chamber - it was fun to challenge ourselves to make it through.  Probably the highlight of today’s snorkel was a total of 7 white tipped reef sharks that were swimming placidly just about 10 feet below us.  Some of us dove down and swam side by side with the sharks.  They ranged in size from 4-6 feet.  No danger at all - they just viewed us as another species of fish and went on their merry way.  Certainly a memorable moment for our family as it was the first time Jale and the kids had swam with sharks.  Pretty cool.  

Later Richard gave a fascinating talk about geology and how the islands formed (a volcanic hot spot created the chain of islands dating back 3 million years).  We learned about plate tectonics, subduction zones, slip/strike faults and more.  The composition of the lava here is unique in that it does not explode like volcanoes on the mainland so instead you get more of an oozing spillover.

Richard is one of the scientists that sample the lava and he said that on the mainland he has lost 6 friends (fellow scientists) to volcanic eruptions.  Makes one pause and appreciate those that risk their lives in the name of science.

After a kayak session around the scenic bay we pulled up anchor and headed into deeper waters where we encountered an amazing site of over 100 spinner dolphins leaping as high as 10 feet out of the water and flopping onto their sides with a big “whoomp”.  It was like they were have a contest - it looked like they were having a blast.  Our yacht positioned us right in the middle of this scene so we got some excellent photos and close up views.  We then continued along some steep lush cliffs on a sunset cruise and we all gathered on the top deck to watch the sky as it changed colors.  

There was an enormous cumulous cloud filled with ominous dark rain in the distance and it let loose a series of lightning strikes that were spectacular to witness across the horizon as the sun turned into a glowing orange ball and the clouds all turned into giant pink cotton candy.

Next:  North Seymour Island - Frigate Birds & Hammerheads

Day 7: Isabella - Volcanic Lake, Kayaking, and King Neptune’s Wrath

This morning we got an early start at Tagus bay where we witnessed some of the oldest graffiti in the world dating to the 1600’s when passing ships would leave their mark.  

Our walk took us up a steep path to the top of a volcanic crater which was filled with a crystal blue lake. As we gained elevation the vegetation changed dramatically and we started to feel the cooler air in the highlands. 

We were treated to a great view of over 70 miles at the top.  We could look down the lava flow on the other side of Isabella Island and back towards lush green Fernandina and the other volcanoes we had passed early on the journey.   

The setting was quite stunning as the blue sea was contrasted by the green slopes and the dark black and red lava fields that were frozen in time as they stretched to the sea.  

After returning to the boat we had a nice snorkel session along a cliff wall where we swam with turtles, penguins, and marine iguanas.

Later we were offered a short kayak tour around the cove and then we settled in for a fresh fish lunch and a nap.  Our afternoon was highlighted by a superb snorkel session

at “turtle city” where we literally swam among more than 50 turtles that were in various states from relaxing on the sandy bottom some 10 feet below to cruising like a space ship between the bottom and the surface.  There were some larger fish like barracuda 

That put on quite a display as they darted in and out of us.  The wall we were snorkeling along had some excellent ledges that hid some very strange looking puffer fish and we even spotted a purple encrusted octopus.  When we got back to the Integrity yacht we were treated to a magnificent sunset and then raised champagne flutes to toast the crossing of the Equator line. 

Latitude: N00* 00*

It was a perfect scene as we sailed past the tip of Isabella Island with its 1000 foot peaks covered in lush green - very reminiscent of the Napali Coast in Kauai.   Then all hell broke lose as we were accosted by the crew who had dressed up as King Neptune and his merry band.  Apparently King Neptune was upset with us for not asking his permission to cross the Equator and all sorts of fun antics ensued including each member of the group making a supplicatory dance, the selection of a new Queen for Neptune, and then acting out various animals that we were assigned to become.  It was all good fun and we had many laughs through the night.

Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings…

Next: Santiago Island - Fur Seals, Spinner Dolphins & Sharks

Day 5: Isabella - Lava Walk, Snorkel with Sea Turtles, Penguins & Golden Rays

Today’s adventure started with a dry landing and a hike across a what seemed like the surface of the moon but was actually a lava field with fantastic formations from swirling circles to rippled waves. 

Interspersed through the landscape were deep fissures and clefts that often dropped down 20-30 feet or more.  Richard told us about the geology of the islands and that this was the second most active volcanic chain in the world behind Hawaii.  

The islands here are less than 3 million years old so relatively new to the planet.  

Our amazing guide, Richard Polatty

Later, Richard gave a superb lecture about climate change, oceanography and the causes and effects of El Nino.  It’s amazing to think that during an El Nino event up to 70 percent of certain species died off.  We gained a new appreciation for the effects of ocean temperatures and how the affect things like the trade winds, marine food supplies, and more…
Click here to watch the video of snorkeling with the turtles

Probably our favorite activity of the day was a highly interactive snorkeling session where we were able to swim with numerous sea turtles and observe them feeding on the algea and seaweed near shore.  The kids were loving it!  

Later in the day we set off in the pangas to explore the tidal rocks where we encountered our first Galapagos penguins.  How cool!  We were able to glide up to within a few feet of the penguins and watched as they dove into the clear water and zoomed about under our panga.  Many people do not expect to find penguins in warm waters so it is a great surprise to them to find endemic penguins on the equator. 

We then entered into a large red mangrove tidal forest where we were treated to lots of sea turtles, spotted rays, and even a whole formation of beautiful golden rays gliding along in perfect symmetry. 

Next: Isabella Island Part 2 - Walking amongst Land Iguanas and Fernandina - Swimming with Marine Iguanas

Day 6: Isabella Island Part 2 - Walking amongst Land Iguanas and Fernandina - Swimming with Marine Iguanas

This morning we ventured to shore in search of colorful land iguanas and giant tortoises.  We were lucky to find several huge iguanas sunning themselves in the early morning light on the trail.  These creatures look so pre-historic with their reptilian faces, scaled bodies, and long rounded tails.  At this time of year they display beautiful yellows and reds on their backs.  Several of these were up to six feet in length and allowed us to approach them to within a couple of feet. 

 One of the rare treats of the Galapagos is that animals have no fear of humans and thus the wildlife viewing is unsurpassed on the planet.  Our morning also included some nice encounters with giant tortoises and Richard did a good job explaining how their spines actually fuse into a unibody  construction with their shells.  These creatures can last up to a year without water - incredible.

After lunch we cruised across the channel to Fernandina Island where we enjoyed some world class snorkeling among some of the strangest creatures on the planet - marine iguanas.  Just picture a mini version of Godzilla that can swim and you have a good idea of what we encountered.  Imagine swimming and snorkeling amidst these creatures as they chew algea and seaweed off the rocky coastline…

In the late afternoon we made a shore landing to visit “Marine Iguana City” where we witnessed the strange site of hundreds of iguanas all piled up on top of each other basking in the sun along the shore. We also saw lots of red Sally Light Foot Crabs and then a Galapagos Hawk flew by with an iguana in its mouth - just another day in the islands…

Next: Isabella - Volcanic Lake, Kayaking, and King Neptune’s Wrath

Day 4: Floreana Island: Pink Flamingos, Snorkeling, Post Office Bay & Human History

Our day started early with a 6:00AM wake up, breakfast at 6:30 and off to shore at 07:15AM.  Our first landing was a “wet” one where we disembarked onto a sand beach and then walked inland to a lagoon where we were treated to close up views of the rare Galapagos pink flamingo.  We learned about their feeding habits (brine shrimp give them their pink color), anatomy (their heads are basically on upside down and their ankles are where our knees would be located).  

Photo by Weston Walker

We returned to the boat for our first snorkel experience which allowed us to swim with playful sea lions and view large schools of tropical fish.  The water was warm and very clear. 

Then we headed over to Post Office Bay where we walked a short distance to the most unusual post office in the world.  Essentially, it is a huge barrel that people put postcards in without stamps.  The other travelers come by and hand deliver the postcards to people back in their home town if the address matches.  We found postcards addressed to all 4 corners of the globe.  It was fun to see what people wrote and to be part of the human history of the Galapagos because this same postal system was used by early travelers since Darwin’s time to get messages to other ships and to home ports...fascinating.  

In the afternoon we set off to the highlands of Floreana in a funky local bus that took us up the volcanic slope to the highlands where the flora changed from low scrub to mature tall forest, farmlands, and fruit trees.  We took a walk through a tortoise preserve where we had some excellent close encounters with these ancient creatures. 

 

We then walked to where the first inhabitants of the Galapagos had settled into cave dwellings in the 1920’s and learned the twisted history of the bizarre characters that came here from around the globe.  Ironically, they were trying to escape from civilization but soon found themselves with neighbors and visitors from the homeland (Germany).  We heard tales of intrigue including mysterious disappearances, possible murders, love triangles and more...there was even a self proclaimed “Empress of the Islands” - truly bizarre!

Movie about the Floreana's history

Next:Isabella - Lava Walk, Snorkel with Sea Turtles, Penguins & Golden Rays