Day 3: Visit to Charles Darwin Research Station and then getting on the Integrity Yacht

Today we bade farewell to the wonderful staff at the Galapagos Safari camp and descended from the highlands of Santa Cruz towards the coast.  Our destination was the Charles Darwin research station.  En route we stopped to inspect a new luxury lodge called Pikia which features an infinity pool with tremendous views to the eastern coast line, a top notch gourmet restaurant, and beautifully appointed rooms.  The common areas displayed wonderful local art and vibrant landscape paintings by Servio Zapata.  There was even a spa...oh la la.  

After a twenty minute drive we arrived at the coast and entered the research station where we learned about efforts to conserve and breed the Galapagos Tortoise which is a giant creature that can grow up to 2 meters and live over 150 years.  We learned that temperature determines the sex of the hatchlings much like other reptiles and that advances in DNA testing are allowing researchers to gain valuable insights into which island each tortoise species originated.

Next we cruised through the small town of Puerto Ayorra where we did some last minute shopping and then boarded a water taxi to the Finch Bay Hotel for a nice lunch by the pool.  After lunch we walked a short distance to Las Greitas, a local spot to swim in a crystal clear fresh water pool created by a cleft in the lava walls which rose up to over 50 feet above our heads.  It was a perfect time for a refreshing swim on a hot day.  

Seals welcomed us on the dock

In the late afternoon we were transferred by water taxi out to our gorgeous yacht, the Integrity, where we were welcomed onboard by our naturalist guide, Richard Polatty and a team of professional crew members.  Our spacious cabins feature 2 enormous picture windows that afford superb views, a sitting area, DVD and flat screen TV to watch wildlife documentaries, an en suite bathroom.  The yacht is over 140 feet with 8 cabins for 16 guests.  

The second floor features a dining room and lounge with bar.  The top deck has an open air bar, lounge area, and a jacuzzi.  There are 2 “pangas” (zodiac style rubber inflatable boats) to whisk us to shore each day.  Richard provided a safety briefing and orientation and then we settled in for a delicious fresh fish dinner. 

Next: Floreana Island: Pink Flamingos, Snorkeling, Post Office Bay & Human History

Day 2: Galapagos Safari Camp

We were up bright and early to transfer to the airport for our 2 hour flight to the Galapagos Islands.  We arrived at Baltra Airport about mid-day and made the transfer to the main island of Santa Cruz just across the channel.  Flying into the islands one is reminded of Hawaii with golden sand beaches, lush green landscape, volcanic cones and lava flows to the sea.  

We had a delicious lunch at our lodge called the Safari Camp with spectacular views over a wilderness all the way from the highlands to the sea about 3 miles away.  Not a single man made structure in sight... It felt like Africa.  

The lodge features tented platforms set in the forest with excellent views over the western slopes of Santa Cruz island.  It even has a pool which we eagerly took advantage of.  The staff was wonderful. We met the chef who prepared us a delicious meal using local ingredients.

After lunch we went to a tortoise preserve where we were able to walk among the giant creatures as the ambled around in the tall grasses.  It was cool to see an old shell and witness the interior to get a sense of how the body structure works.  We took some fun photos by climbing into the shells and posing for pictures.  

Next: Visit to Charles Darwin Center and Embarking on the fabulous yacht Integrity

Day 1: Fascinating Quito, a Unesco World Heritage City

Best of Both Worlds;

We arrived last night in Quito at the sparkling new airport having flown from San Francisco via Houston.  The old airport was located in the center of the town and it was always a white knuckle landing as you could see buildings on both sides of the plane on approach.  Now it is much safer and there is a great new highway that runs straight to town.  We were met and whisked into the old quarter in less than 45 minutes where we checked in to the magnificent Casa Gangotena, a converted mansion facing onto one of the main squares in town.  

Our room faces out onto a gorgeous garden patio filled with orchids surrounding a peaceful fountain.  The bathroom is enormous but the best part of the hotel is probably the common areas like the charming restaurant with excellent fresh fish, ceviche and more boasting a superb view onto the plaza or the roof top terrace with a commanding view over the city's many church  towers doting the skyline - just magic at night.

We spent the morning walking the historic cobblestone streets and plazas where we witnessed cute young school kids running off to school in their colorful uniforms, vendors hawking local specialties like fruit and ice cream, and old couples shuffling along slowly soaking up the morning sun.  

The architecture is impressive, especially the massive colonial churches with their ornate details, the national bank with its imposing columns of stone, and the quaint two story buildings colorfully painted with balconies and flower pots adorning the upper floors.

 One of our goals was to find Jordan some international soccer jerseys and we had good fun winding in and out of various shops and markets where the locals greeted us with a quick smile and were eager to help (even if they had never heard of some of Jordan's favorite players like Neymar, Aguerro, etc…).  We hit the jackpot at one store which offered very affordable high quality jerseys and the young proprietor even posed for a photo with Jordan.  It turns out he was a talented guitar player and at the insistence of his mother he played us a beautiful song on the guitar.  It nice to have an authentic cultural interaction with this family.  

The people of Ecuador are truly gracious and carry on a proud Indian tradition which is evident in their daily lives and belief system.  We later toured the magnificent Casa del Alabado which has a superb collection of pre-Columbian art that is well displayed and explained.  We learned about the importance of the connection between the three worlds: underworld, surface world, and cosmos.  The shaman is tasked with the dangerous responsibility to keep the link (axis mundo) open between these parallel worlds.  The ceramics were mind blowing featuring images of jaguars, shamans, strange creatures we could identify, hand carved rolling cylinders and much more. 

As Clavey noted,  Quito is known for its majestic blend of both Incan and colonial Spanish culture, both of which are very prominent in the city.  Jordan loved exploring the Old Town by foot and loved the food, too.

We rounded out our afternoon with a scrumptious afternoon tea at our hotel and an evening stroll to the impressive Plaza Indepencia where we dined at Mea Culpa on the second floor with great ambiance and views over the richly illuminate plaza.  Our meal included steak, seafood, ceviche and the service was excellent.  Now we are packing up for our flight to the Enchanted Islands (Galapagos) tomorrow…

Here is some general info about Quito, a Unesco World Heritage city, in case you have never been

Quito, the capital of Ecuador, was founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city and stands at an altitude of 2,850 m. Despite the 1917 earthquake, the city has the best-preserved, least altered historic centre in Latin America. The monasteries of San Francisco and Santo Domingo, and the Church and Jesuit College of La Compañía, with their rich interiors, are pure examples of the 'Baroque school of Quito', which is a fusion of Spanish, Italian, Moorish, Flemish and indigenous art.

Next: Galapagos Safari Camp